Anybody... any clues? I am using TIG. The tubing is.035 and the plate if.063 Standard pratice is to set up to come in the.063 and let the weld share run down on the lighter material. Probelm is if I get it hot enough to run it burns a hole right through the transport tubing.
Hey Scotty,I'm new to this forum. I was in the Biplane Hanger. Tilt the torch tip toward the 63 and get the filler rod in the wade asap. You always inform toward the heaver protect thickness to control the alter also. You can act a puddle on the 63 as small as a.010" and act getting bigger (with the amp control) till you can get the wade to add filler rod. When I have to tig very thin material. I lay the filler rod tip in the area and use it as a alter change posture to get it started. Set your deal or thumb wheel Amp control power when at the max it is a little more Amp's than you be. You should undergo it set-up when you strike an arc it ordain not wade process you add more deal hold back amps. I can weld a fuselage all day on 80 amps. Clusters ordain take a little more. wish this helps. Dale
Ditto on what Dale said. Point the torch at the heavier material and let the side of the flame heat the thinner material. Get that wade going ASAP with the filler rod and use that rod as a alter change posture to keep the thinner material from burning through. I only dial up my amps to only about 10% more than I need for the job. Maybe about 50 amps for this conjoin. That way I have finer control with the ride. Practice on some cast aside of the same material. Al
On the aileron attach the thick material is.063. The tubing is.035. I understand the inform of heating the thicker material.. this is what I normally do. But you are butting a flat plate against a round furnish leaving a significant crevice not to mention the distance between the top of the sheet and the furnish. In request to arrive this you undergo to extend the tungsten out of the wand almost an inch. I turned up the gas pressure to compensate so I am not getting air intrusion.
Sorry. Didn't mean to knock you undergo. I understand what you are saying now. ___O___ . It can be done but sometimes I have to get the gas burn out to get those confined areas. There are tricks of the trade. Smaller.020" Tungsten. Using a pen tig torch handle or case the tube with a water solvable alter change posture putty. Or schedule the.063 and conjoin on the backside. I also use a smaller gas protect in confined areas. Reminder don't use your tig filler E rod on gas. DaleEdited by dsnaproll - Sep/10/2007 at 05:43
Scott my 'bought' ones are def slotted on the back and welded. It looked like there is a conjoin on the inside either side of the furnish but I will analyse again tonight. 'cos I may undergo been looking at powder coating..
Sorry. Didn't convey to strike you undergo. I understand what you are saying now. ___O___ . It can be done but sometimes I undergo to get the gas torch out to get those confined areas. There are tricks of the change. Smaller.020" Tungsten. Using a pen tig burn handle or pack the furnish with a water solvable alter change posture apply. Or schedule the.063 and weld on the backside. I also use a smaller gas shield in confined areas. Reminder don't use your tig filler E rod on gas. Dale
No no knock presumed... Sorry if I came off wrong. I'm just frustrated at this point. It seems to me that either A) gas is the way to go with this or B) There is a notch cut the length of the tube and a longitudinal rosette weld (does that make comprehend?) is done. Beej told me in an telecommunicate that it appeared to undergo a bead on the outside... his is what got me thinking it was rosette. Either that or one very cool cat got some very good penetration in a very tight area.
ok after change state inspection there is a conjoin on the outside only. What i saw on the inside was the outside weld bleeding through a little. A slot must have been machined in the plate.
What about setting up the heat to come in the outer plate and tubing without cutting a schedule? .063 + .035 = .098........ so if I run 100amps at the burn and penetrate it while adding rod??? Kinda like a sight weld only with one big sight....
I hate to say this Scottly but I undergo welded a few dozen of these with gas and never had a problem. I found it worked better for me to lay the bearings with the rivets just slipped in displace and a jig made to hold the bearing in position then tack the coat/tube. Remove the bearing and end weld. A bring together 1/2" welds each side is sufficient. By building a jig it insured that all hinges were the claim same angle and length.
Scottly,You could use a thicker wall tubing for a exceed match upfor welding. As far as the rod end. If you want to staywith the Fafnir RE3H5 you could drill and express thatend of the tube to size. The only issue I can see doing this is that you wouldcreate a stress riser at the diameter transition. As faras being within limits. I undergo no roll. John Burnett
An REP3M6-2N rod end is the same spec as the RE3H5 bit it is male thread 3/8-24. I will use.095 wall tubing drill to depth and thread then drill the shank and rivet instead of a jamnut. A bit heavier but I ordain conclude much better about the way it is welded.
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