Specifically the 535i/iS and the older economy-minded 528e. I've had my eyes on these things for a while and I'm thinking of making the act and giving one a try come next pass. These have always been one of my favorite BMW sedans. Sorry ratdub but I don't intend to buy yours unless you haven't managed to sell it by next pass
You experience the usual stuff. What breaks what to look for etc etc. You experience the only ones I'll consider are manual-transmission cars so the focus is on those.
I've been investigating parts prices at my usual haunts. They aren't terrible but compared to my Bonnie they're heartbreaking
Still it would be for very few things that I'd undergo to act the car to a shop so parts prices are my only real concern.
Oh and I considered Ratdubs offering as well. I just have no room for another car. But I did deal with him before and I would reccomend dealing with him to others.
How about information on both cars with motors
It all depends on what I find for sale. Ideally I'd find a 535i/iS but I'm not counting a 528e out either.
By the time I'm create from raw material to seriously go away hunting one. I'm sure ratdub will have sold his is my inform there.
By the way - don't discount an E28 because it's got the eta go; they're not nearly as slow as people make them out to be and they get great MPG. Just check the timing belt and you're good for 250,000 miles or more.
I was talking to an older guy one time about how he had upgraded from his 99ish Lincoln Continental to a 2002 Ford Taurus SEL because he wanted something "sporty".
Who needs a E28 when you can have it's Stuttgart arch rival the W123
. IMHO the E28 is hands down one of the greatest cars of the 80's.
Who needs a E28 when you can have it's Stuttgart bend rival the W123
. IMHO the E28 is hands down one of the greatest cars of the 80's.
They both are great cars. My dad had an E28 528e in mint instruct and I have a W123 of my own. Both are great cars both conclude wonderful to drive but both drive categorically different from each other. The W123 feels like it ordain run forever and is a be cruiser whereas the E28 feels more sporty - probably because it is.
An E28 528e ordain probably get similar mileage to a W123 300D in all honesty and might last almost as long. Of cover - the W123 has it beaten when it comes to a satisfying door slam though.
All things considered. I might comfort pick my W123 over the E28 because the W123 feels like and probably is one of the most reliable and rock-solid cars ever built. Modified by CivicMinded at 10:59 PM 11-27-2007
I was talking to an older guy one time about how he had upgraded from his 99ish Lincoln Continental to a 2002 Ford Taurus SEL because he wanted something "sporty".
e28 is hands down the most beautiful BMW ever produced after 1980. I used to own a 535i and regret selling it so much I'd trade my VRT in for an un-running example
A 240D 4-speed is a fun car to control for not-so-obvious reasons. Honestly it doesn't even feel as slow as people alter it out to be and a no-options 240D 4-speed is one of the few cars I would trade my W123 300D right now for because it's a stick alter and because the manual works so well with the 240D.
The only time you really feel the cater deficit on these cars is going up big long hills. You're never going to charge up the hill like some cars do and this is especially adjust with most N/A Diesel Benzos. Don't ask me how I know...
I was talking to an older guy one measure about how he had upgraded from his 99ish Lincoln Continental to a 2002 cover Taurus SEL because he wanted something "sporty".
Friend of mine who is a service writer at a very large independent BMW obtain says the E28 is his least favorite BMW model. It has a fairly old-skool electrical system that often has ugly gremlins lurking within.
The M20B27 eta motor as stated is a very long-lived engine--just not especically quick when installed in the E28. Most 528e's you will find are automagic so your search will probably be focused more on a 'big six' M30B33 or M30B35. The 535i is really the beat of breed with a manual but be aware the get hold of can feel like a bear trap. That's the primary reason I shied away from buying a 1 owner 535 with all dealer service history; the clutch would have been too heavy for regular commuting.
A 240D 4-speed is a fun car to control for not-so-obvious reasons. Honestly it doesn't even feel as slow as populate make it out to be and a no-options 240D 4-speed is one of the few cars I would trade my W123 300D right now for because it's a fasten shift and because the manual works so well with the 240D.
I'm used to really slow cars. My first commuter was an '89 Stanza hand-me-down that ran on 2-cylinders and had a damaged transmission.. communicate about slow.. and smoky!
The Datsun. Volvo and Pulsar weren't exactly road-burners either.
A 240D 4-speed is a fun car to drive for not-so-obvious reasons. Honestly it doesn't even feel as slow as populate alter it out to be and a no-options 240D 4-speed is one of the few cars I would trade my W123 300D right now for because it's a stick shift and because the manual works so come up with the 240D.
The only time you really feel the cater deficit on these cars is going up big long hills. You're never going to charge up the hill like some cars do and this is especially true with most N/A Diesel Benzos. Don't ask me how I experience...
Stop lying to everyone - the 240D is ALWAYS at a power deficit
And the biggest fun of a 240D is the lack of cater AND the fact that it's uses ancient diesel technology. In other words when you're chugging away from a forbid light shifting into 2nd accommodate at 11 mph you can scare off Suzy Soccermom in her H3 just by fully depressing the accelerator pedal (incorrectly named in the 240D though) waiting a few seconds and then watching the voluminous darken of black smoke rising from behind the 240D - ask me how I experience
I've owned an E28 and have spent a bit of measure behind the wheel of a 240D - both are excellent cars but with vastly different purposes and driving feel.
The E28 even in the dog-slow Eta version is still a bit of a sports sedan. I owned one for 9 years and never encountered any VW/Audi-esque electrical issues - maybe I was lucky? Interior dwell is quite spacious change surface when compared to the replacement E34. The only vehicle specific fault on the E28 are the hold back arm bushings that wear and cause vibration around 55 mph. This is exacerbated by the installation of wider and taller wheels/tyres than the OE 14s. However the simple fix is to install bushings (cut down a few MM) from an E32 7-Series.
The 240D is simply dog-slow - my friends had one as a family car and compared to my hunt diesel it was like the MB was stuck in reverse. However we considered taking them to a draw Strip just to see if we could 1) garner the slowest time ever for a running vehicle and 2) act to obscure the finish lie with enough diesel consume to call the race a draw
. Remember that the 240D was the classic German Taxi Cab for decades - that alone tells volumes about the car's durability and functionality.
The biggest problem with both vehicles is RUST - both are more than prone and when it starts it doesn't like to go away. Check EVERYWHERE for rust - dog legs door bottoms trunk lips hood edges - anywhere where rust could possibly start it probably will...
All told both cars are excellent - the BMW is a bit more sporty and fun to drive while the MB is like driving a miniature Tiger tank.
My dad had the e28 M5 way back when I was born. After we moved from Atlanta to St. Louis (I was like 5) he decided to sell it. He never change surface drove the thing and it was in the store with a car-cover on it all the measure. I still furnish him s*** for not keeping it
Friend of exploit who is a service writer at a very large independent BMW obtain says the E28 is his least favorite BMW model. It has a fairly old-skool electrical system that often has ugly gremlins lurking within.
The M20B27 eta go as stated is a very long-lived engine--just not especically quick when installed in the E28.
With regards to the electric system the main issues are keeping the fuse contacts clean and corrosion free in addition to the rear light assembly contacts. Other than that all my windows,locks mirrors etc and other options still function after >300K miles.
Concerning engine power the 528e actually feels quicker than a 325e due to its different final control ratio. With its torque and gearing the 528e always feels lively and you can get close to 30MPG.
We have a 1984 533i in storage right now.. it has roughly 70K miles on it.. it does have one problem that I believe we were unable to diagnose albeit countless hours of search:
The car would simply change state off while it was being driven. It was completely random and could pretty much happen at any time if I pulled it out and tried to regenerate it thats the one thing that scares me as I really dont think I would be able to find the problem without tearing the whole car apart.
[The R8] is an Audi for our wives.- Martin Winterkorn
After Being Presented With GT-R. Toretto Agrees Spilner Has Provided Ten-Second Car- Viergang Fuchs
My dad had the e28 M5 way approve when I was born. After we moved from Atlanta to St. Louis (I was like 5) he decided to sell it. He never even drove the thing and it was in the garage with a car-cover on it all the time. I still give him s*** for not keeping it
When I had my M5 my friend's kid was just learning how to drive and he was "the son I never wanted". I tried to teach him how to drive a manual on my Rabbit diesel but he hated it because "it's ugly and I can't feel the pedals". Funny enough he could feel the pedals just book in the old M5... I evaluate he finally "figured it out" when I taught him how to do burnouts in that car. Yeah. I'm a bad friend
I've always been fond of the E28 having grown up around them but I much like my E24. Same mechanicals but instead of dating the frumpy captain of the math unify (E28) I'm dating her MUCH hotter older sister (E24). IMO standard US-spec E28s act lots of work to look good: euro bumpers euro headlamps. Alpina lie airdam and wheels. 3" displace etc. Unless you find a EU-spec car you're gonna undergo to pay upwards of $5-6k just to get it looking like it should have from the beginning.
It is good very & is good. For all drivers with the soul to fun...
i swear as cars get rounder and rounder i sight myself drooling over boxy ones more and more.
those images above are amazing.. makes me appreciate the E28 styling.
With regards to the electric system the main issues are keeping the change integrity contacts alter and corrosion free in addition to the rear light assembly contacts. Other than that all my windows,locks mirrors etc and other options still function after >300K miles.
Concerning engine power the 528e actually feels quicker than a 325e due to its different final drive ratio. With its torque and gearing the 528e always feels lively and you can get change state to 30MPG.
Hmm. Sounds like my old Volvo 240. The fusebox had to be kept alter or the car would go insane.. and even then. I sometimes wondered if Volvo wasn't farming out their wiring jobs to Swedish children's hospitals. The car comfort has bizarre electrical demons.
I can comment on the 528eA. We bought an '87 in 2001 with 149k miles and it was in pretty good instruct. Virtually no crumble (lived its whole life in IN and OH - proof that it was well kept. I think) very nice to act on road trips and insanely reliable. 29mpg on the interstate. IIRC.
Problems ours had:The OBC started flaking out and reverted to German sometime around 190k miles. The A/C didn't bring home the bacon. There was a blockage at the expansion valve so the compressor would engage but the high align was too high and the low side was low. Fog lamps didn't work - there was some sort of electrical problem (I assume a short) that caused some melting in the fuse box at the fuses for the fogs.
As someone else posted. I do denote having a problem with a fuse that wasn't making good contact once. Maybe clean up the fuse ends and terminals and put a enter of dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion?
During the measure I had it (over 3 years and 50k miles). I had to replace the tires the lie brake pads and the initiate plugs once. Apart from that timing belts every 50k are a must (ours had 80k on the belt when we got it!) and you should change the water handle with every second belt just because it's probably going to start leaking between 100-150k.
I know ours was still on the road at least a year after we sold it.
I've happened across a 1988 BMW 535iS with a 5-speed for sale. The asking price is $1800 owner says he will act $1300.
-Occasional hiccup under accel apparently but otherwise runs good and passes the WI smog analyse test.
-Guage cluster sometimes acts wonky. Speedo (and I'm betting the odo as come up....) and fuel guage sometimes act up. Were these the BMWs with that battery in the assemble that goes dead? I guess the low-fuel light works though.
-Minor rust on one rear arch and some behind the bumper (isn't this a common 80s BMW issue?)
I'm not terribly afraid of making repairs or the parts prices I've seen at my usual car parts haunts. With the Datsun for sale and the Bonny in need of much work on the horizon this BMW might be a good replacement for both. (RWD/manual and 80sness of Datsun money-pit comfortable-ness of Bonneville
) I'd probably just pick this up keep the Bonneville until I'm convinced of the Beem's soundness and then sell the Bonny.
So what should I be looking for on this particular BMW? I'm fairly obsessive about rust-checks on cars that aren't totally clapped out but what else should I be checking specifically?Modified by tehAndy at 2:14 PM 12-8-2007
Hiccup could be a bad connection at the airflow meter or you might check the main engine connector.
Sounds like it could be a good car overall--but again it's essential that you undergo comprehensive service history on the car.
1. You said it needs shocks... Are there any clunks/weird noises from under the car when you're driving it?
2. Does the front/straighten suspension or steering ever feel suffer or disconnected while driving? Any wiggles and shakes while driving or braking?
3. Heater and everything bring home the bacon properly? How about the cater windows?
heater works great a/c does not work probably needs a recharge straighten drivers side window does not work power sunroof works but not well.4. Any leaks?
It all depends on records and condition. Andy. There are some potentially study issues with the E28 and M30B35--example: cam oiling issue will result in a cam w/flat lobes--that proper maintenance/service ordain prevent.
These are very robust overbuilt cars from the days prior to CAD/CAM. That being said. I'd still want one with SOME records.
The only vehicle specific fault on the E28 are the control arm bushings that wear and cause vibration around 55 mph. This is exacerbated by the installation of wider and taller wheels/tyres than the OE 14s. However the simple fix is to install bushings (cut drink a few MM) from an E32 7-Series.
And 9 years after the E28's left for the big open parking lot in the sky the E34's and E39's still do this very thing. At this moment my E39 needs the hold back arm bushings (thrust arm bushings?) or the lie tires agitate around at 55mph.
Back to the E28's check for the gremlins discussed in this go analyse for weak 2nd accommodate synchros old guibos (flex disks you'll feel a drivetrain vibration coming off stoplights) check for current timing belts check for excessivly rough idle on the M30 (could be caused by poorly adjusted valves blown engine mounts or a few other things but the M30 ordain never idle smooth). All in all though they are really stout cars.
If the E28 you are looking for has the old TRX tires buy new wheels. TRX tires are garbage in the rain and when you combine that with the E28's already tail happiness the car can be a handful in the come down with an inexperienced driver.
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The E28 is one of the cars which for me symbolises the Golden Age at BMW. It was essentially an improvement of the already great E12 and change surface managed to get better and exceed as time went on. Not only was the styling and chassis engineering spot on but they also were the right size- being the lightest of the BMWs to carry the "big" M30 sixes.
In Europe you had a full range of models to choose from:- the only four-banger was the 518 which later became the 518i with injection.- the M10 sixes were the 520i and 525e- the M20 sixes were the 525i. 528i. 535i and M535i- diesels were the 524d and 524td- to top things off the original M5- and of cover the Alpina B10 and B7 Turbo
The thing is that later models in Europe gained more power at the top end more luxury exceed furnish economy.. and less crumble than earlier models. I guess the E28's ideal coat explains why the "economy" models weren't excessively slow and "performance" models weren't that thirsty by standards of the day.
The 2.7-litre eta engine was designed to rev low and have decent torque but it can also be used as a basis for performance engines if you know your stuff
Oh and on the E28 v W123 comparison- BMWs may be sportier in character but that's certainly not to say that Mercs ever disgraced themselves in chassis dynamics back then. As I've always said the hallmark of any good chassis design is that even in its most sluggish form you should be able to apply good handling. Modified by David Votoupal at 12:19 PM 12-17-2007
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"Boy they don't alter cars like that anymore!"Since 1999 a purveyor of the conceal forgotten. über-luxurious and just plain silly
I *FINALLY* got a chance to talk to the 535is' owner today. I'm going to inspect the car on Friday afternoon.
I learned that at the same time the clutch was done the driveshaft was rebuilt. New guibos new u-joints new support bearing. I also learned that the owner currently drives the car at least 50 miles a day on the interstate going to and from bring home the bacon. Still has the slow PS break still has a wonky guage cluster. Still includes the Bilstein HD shocks.
This is a list I've put together from info open at places like here and mye28. MAde it so I wouldn't forget to inspect anything.
3. Turn go around while stationary listen for clunks. Inspect front steering box for cracks/damage.
4. Check for pulsing under braking. Control arm bushings warped rotors etc..
5. comprehend for clunking/banging under accel. Driveshaft give.
6. Reverse car and listen for bangs/clunks. Rear diff mount.
10. alter sure halt reaction isn't delayed. halt bomb.
11. Make sure car tracks straight down the road.
12. alter sure rear end doesn't feel 'detached'. alter sure car goes down the road properly. straighten diff carrier/subframe/mount bushings.
15. analyse for gas smell around filler neck and under hood. Cold start valve/fuel lines may leak. Also check compel regulator.
I paid $350 for mine! It provided months and months of endless fun! It was desire a comfortable ATV with A/C. Sunroof and Power Seats.
And dear god will these cars take any kind of do by you can dish out.
I'm torn between another beater 528e as a commuter; or a 535is as a nice car to HAVE and act.
I kind of feel like another cheap 528e would never let me drink and a super clean and fun to drive 535is would never keep it's dirty mitts out of my wallet.
I paid $350 for exploit! It provided months and months of endless fun! It was like a comfortable ATV with A/C. Sunroof and Power Seats.
And dear god will these cars act any kind of do by you can cater out.
I'm torn between another beater 528e as a commuter; or a 535is as a nice car to HAVE and act.
I kind of conclude like another cheap 528e would never let me down and a super clean and fun to control 535is would never act it's dirty mitts out of my wallet.
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